Is it better to cope crown molding

Cut a cope a little long and snap it in place—it will close up even tighter.Ideally, the relative humidity should be 35% to 40% at a temperature of 60°f to 70°f.It is actually a lot easier than 45'ing everything.You can pressure fit a coped joint.But it will bet better.

To cope crown moulding for inside corners, you will need a mitre saw, a coping saw, a mitre box, a pencil and safety goggles.A cope is a much better joint and can be quicker than mitering.However, this does not always work when it comes to wall corners.Coped joints can be cut a skosh long and sprung into place tightly for a perfect fit.Oftentimes, simply using a square cut or a miter cut will cause the molding to bump up against each other, which doesn't look very good.

So in areas with humid summers and dry winters, many installers swear by coping.On the first wall, cut crown moulding for a butt joint in the corner.Not a perfect fit by any means but it will work.For this reason, it is often preferred for work with historic or period moldings.On the mitered cut, mark the edge of the crown moulding profile with a pencil to give you a line to follow with your coping saw.

The first one will be garbage, the second try will be a little bit better, the third attempt will almost be there, the fourth one will work, the fifth one will be nicer, and the sixth cope you'll finally figure it out.We look at some different profile examples of crown that must be mitered.